Maintenance & Tips
(Updated 4/1/10 to add Index list & info about ant control)
Click here to see the maintenance guidelines (responsibilities of owners and the association)
Click on one of the following to go to the subjects that are also down below:
Front entry system
Mail boxes
Parking/Towing
Window washing
Insurance
Water leaks, Slow drains, Flood alarms
Termites, Ants
Sliding screen and glass doors, Porch lights, Front doors
Washing & drying machines in units
Mold, Metal & salt air
Electrical sockets, unit cleaning, carpet cleaning & moisture removal, old circuit breakers, old wall heaters
Dog emergency care & pet sitting
Common Area Keys - Owners can purchase these for $50 (call the on-site office at 481-0976, or e-mail us). These are special, three-dimensional keys which cannot be duplicated.
Gate openers/"clickers" - Owners can purchase remote controls from hardware stores or online (they need to be "Multi-Code 300 MHz", or "Chamberlain 1983-1997 compatible"), then have one of us program it for you (call the on-site office at 481-0976, or put a note and/or the clicker in the mail slot in front of the office).
The small, "keychain" Skylinks are nice, which are available in Dixieline and Sears stores for about $33, or on Skylink's web site http://www.skylinknet.com (model 69N, http://www.skylinkhome.com/us/products/ut/69n.html ).
Also at Dixieline are the dual-button "Clicker" Model KLIK1U that work and can be programmed for two gates.
Another alternative, although my
testing has shown the same distance/range as the small Skylinks above, is the
larger, Chamberlain model CLT1 with single or dual buttons (could program one
for the north gate and one for the south gate):
> Chamberlain's web site (click
here).
> Home Depot, at their stores or on their web site (click
here and put "clicker" in the search box in the upper right
corner).
>The Chamberlain web site also says that Wal-Mart and Radio Shack are
authorized dealers for their clickers.
Front entry system - If you need a name or phone number changed, call or leave a message at the on-site office at 481-0976, e-mail us, or contact our property management company. Note that the numbers at the front gate do not correspond with the unit number for security reasons. When someone either goes to your name and presses "Call", or enters your code number which is listed next to your name, your phone will ring, you can talk with them, and, if desired, you can press "7" to unlock the pedestrian gate to let them in. Please do not do this for anyone that you do not recognize! Sometimes strangers call numbers just to enter the property.
Poor TV reception - If you have poor reception, in general or on any channels, call Cox Cable at (800) 221-4188.
Mail Boxes - It is illegal for the Association to be involved with the mail box locks/keys. If you lose your mail box key, you need to go to a hardware store & purchase a new lock (3/4 inch type) and meet the mail person (about 10:30 AM) to have him or her replace your lock.
Parking/Towing - Parking spaces are the property of the owners. The Association cannot have anyone towed from owner's parking spaces. If someone is parked in one of your spaces, it would be nice to put a note on the car, but at any point you can have their car towed. Towing companies: San Dieguito Towing (760) 753-7771, Rancho Del Oro Towing (760) 945-7600, RoadOne Towing (858) 492-5252, Star Towing (619) 221-0881.
There is parking outside the complex on the street, including overnight, except for the first and third Tuesdays of the months from 1 AM to 8 AM when the City does street cleaning (and does issue parking tickets). There is also parking in the raised lots on the corners of Del Mar Shores and S. Sierra Ave., accessible from Sierra (but no overnight parking - closed 10 PM to 6 AM). Interestingly, we own those properties and have an easement to the City.
Window washing - This is the responsibility of the owners. The best method (minimizes damage to the building & is safest) is by pole and without using ladders (or they bring tanks and use soft water to eliminate the need to squeegie) - one option is City Wide Window Washers at (619) 282-3143 (Martin Montiel, cell (619) 227-7397).
The vendors noted here already take care of units here, and will coordinate & schedule everyone on the same day to keep the cost down.
Other options for window washing are Kiwi Cleaning Services at (760) 451-9913, Kiwi also does carpet & furniture cleaning), and Sparkle at (760) 232-2432.
If your window washer does use a ladder, ask them to carefully place it above, below, or to the side of the window (NOT on the glass and NOT on the vertical beam between the windows - pressure on these can weaken the frame and damage the seals).
Insurance - The Association insurance covers the Common Area only. It is the owner's responsibility to have insurance coverage on their unit and anything related to their unit. Click here for more information.
Water supply, drain, and leakage concerns:
Water damages are the most common major problem on the property. A problem in one unit can cause up to $100,000 damage in that unit and units around it. Owners are responsible for insuring their units and are responsible for anything caused by their units. The Association does not have insurance covering the individual units, and the Association is only responsible for any damages if the Association was negligent (even if the damage is caused by water from common elements such as a common pipe, or an exterior wall or roof). Note that owners are responsible for all pipes (supply and drain) that connect to only their unit, from the unit to the common lines, whether they are in the walls, under the floors, or in the ceilings.
If you see a slow drain in your unit, please call a plumber/drain service to get it cleared (such as Pacific Drain at 760-436-8600). You don't want water backing up into your unit, and possibly doing down into the unit below, or backing up into the adjacent unit or the unit above. Pacific Drain charges $45 for a 2-inch drain, $75-80 if they need to pull a toilet, $55-75 to clear a sewer drain, plus extra if over 1-1/2 hours (rare). Note effective June 1, 2007 per Board decision: If you use Pacific Drain, the HOA will pay for standard drain clearing/snaking (it is pre-arranged/pre-authorized). Note that payment by the Association is merely a courtesy to encourage preventative action and does not relieve the owner of his/her responsibilities
If you have a flood (either from
clean/supply water or from backed-up drain water), you need to take the
following immediate actions. Every minute can cause significantly more
damage to your unit and the units around you.
1. Get the source problem taken care of immediately:
a) If it is clean/supply water, get the water turned off (do it
yourself or get someone's help). If it is coming from a water heater tank,
just turn the valve on the pipe going into it off. For the units over the
garages, turn the valves/"paddles" in the ceiling of the garage
underneath off by pushing them perpendicularly to the pipes - a broom handle or
long board can do this, or by hand on a ladder. For the bluff buildings,
there are red valves on the east sides of the buildings that turn the water off
to the whole building.
b) If it is backed-up drain water, call a plumber and have the line
snaked.
2. If the water might be coming from or going into another unit,
contact the Association (see the emergency contact info
on this web site or outside the office).
3. Immediately get the water and moisture removed to minimize damage. If you are going to turn it into your insurance, call your insurance, tell them it is a water flood emergency, and they will get a flood service out immediately. If you are not going to turn it into insurance, or if you cannot get hold of your insurance company immediately, call a flood service. Some choices: Rancho Carpet Cleaning (760) 758-0074, Quick-Dry (858) 481-9318, or Flooded (858) 755-7658.
Water leaks/back-ups:
a) If water leakage is from a plumbing leak or back-up, call a plumber or drain company, respectively. This is usually caused by something relative to your unit or another unit. Clogs are caused by people putting putting things down drains that shouldn’t be, such as grease, potato peelings, coffee grounds, etc., and often contractors). Even though a clog may develop or work its way into common area piping, the unit that caused it is responsible (if that can be determined), and owner's need to have insurance that covers any kind of damages, including from other units or from common area elements. But the unit that caused it may be difficult to determine. In any event, the Association is not responsible for clogs, even if they are in common lines.
The Association is only responsible for any damages if the Association was negligent (even if the damage is caused by water from common elements such as a common pipe, or an exterior wall or roof).
Note that owners are responsible for all pipes (supply and drain) that connect to only their unit, from the unit to the common lines, whether they are in the walls, under the floors, or in the ceilings.
b) If water leakage is from the rain, depending on the severity, call a handyman. Owners are responsible for the maintenance of windows, doors, and frames (which is where leaks most often occur). The Association is responsible for the maintenance of roofs and exterior walls. But the Association does not know about leaks into units unless owners advise, so please advise the Association as soon a possible if any leaks are suspected from common area elements.
Again,
the Association is not responsible for any damage to an owner's unit no matter
what the cause (unless the
Association is found negligent).
If
the source of the problem is another unit, the
best approach is to have the problem researched by a plumber or handyman
(and it's a good idea to take pictures before they start tearing into things if
they need to). You also should decide if you want to involve your
insurance company first, or after you determine with the plumber or
handyman the extent and possible cost of the problem, or not at all. If
you decide to involve your insurance company, it is best to do it from the
beginning or at least immediately after the plumber or handyman explores the
situation.
After the source of the problem is
discovered by the plumber, handyman, insurance company (or their plumber or
handyman), and all the work has been done to fix and finish everything to your
satisfaction, then either you or your insurance company could go to whoever you
think caused the problem, or to their insurance company, and try to get
reimbursement. If you do it yourself, and it is fairly obvious that the
person/unit was the source, then the other owner may reimburse you, or you may
need to go to small claims court. If you involve your insurance company,
they are very good at determining if or how to go after the other party.
But the problem is that the other party usually needs to be found to have been
negligent, which means it needs to be proven that they knew about the problem
but didn't take care of it.
Tips:
1) Garbage disposals - Either don't use the sink disposals, or let the water run full for 2 minutes after using them. Also, do not put potato peelings down them.
Talking Dirty with the Queen of Clean recommends that once a month you pour a handful or 1/2 cup of baking soda into the drain and follow with 1/2 cup of white vinegar. It will foam. Cover the drain, let sit for 30 minutes and then flush with cold water after 30 minutes.For clogged drains: Pour 1 cup of salt (table salt, rock salt, any kind) and 1 cup of baking soda down the drain. Follow with a kettle or 2 quarts of boiling water. Let sit 30 minutes, then flush with cool water. If the problem is congealed grease, it will be gone immediately. For the very best results don't use the drain for several hours. If you need a stronger product, use 2 tablespoons of washing soda (available where laundry products are sold) dissolved in 1 quart of hot water and pour it slowly down the drain. Flush with hot water after 10 minutes.
2) Hot water tanks should have a tray under them. If you see
any water in this tray, have your water tank replaced immediately - that means
there is a crack and it could burst any minute! Make sure you replace your water
heater every 10 years, and the flex pipes every 5 years (this might sound too often - but not on the coast). This is a common source of water damage (and you
will be responsible for damage to any other units). For more information
on maintaining water heaters, click here.
Also, two additional items can help prevent or minimize damage from burst water
heaters for units that are left vacant for extended periods:
a) If there isn't a valve to turn off the water going into
the water heater, a plumber can easily install one. When the unit is vacant,
the electricity to the
water heater should be turned off in the breaker box and then the valve turned
to the off position (for gate valves, the off position is the handle
perpendicular to the pipe). Then, if the water heater bursts, only the water in the tank will
leak out.
b) There are battery operated flood alarms that are very easy to install which
detect water and emit a loud alarm (they also work for washing
machines and refrigerators which have hoses that can burst). See http://www.floodbusteronline.com/
(this one has three models - a simple model FB-90 for $29.95 that you can place
under sinks or on floors (you can also purchase one from our on-site office for
$30), one that will dial a phone
number, and one that can have up to 8 wireless sensors). Also, see the
"Flood Alert" at web site http://www.zoeller.com/zcopump/products/controlaccess/floodalert.htm
(not sold on the Internet) and http://www.homesecuritystore.com/floodstop.html
(FloodStop II automatically shuts off the water supply to the water heater and
sounds an alarm, $67.50).
Note on replacing hot water tanks: The center-east and southeast buildings have separate drain lines for the trays under the water tanks in the units. However, the other buildings do not. For the other buildings, we recommend your plumber run the pipe from the T&P (Temperature & Pressure) valve on top of the water tank into the drain pipe that most units have for a washing machine near the hot water tank. We also recommend that you purchase a flood detector (see above) to put on the floor next to your water tank in case the tray overflows.
c) Our plumber, John Kasselmann of Seacoast Plumbing (760-402-6175) can install a flood detector that automatically turns off the water supply. The cost is $300.00 including installation.
3) Periodically check the water supply lines to fixtures, appliances, and equipment. Look under sinks and behind toilets for signs of leaking or corroded pipes. Don't forget to check the lines to the hot water heater, dishwasher, washing machine, and refrigerator icemaker supply lines, as well as washing machine hoses. If the flexible water lines under your sinks or to your water heater are the old copper type (especially if you see any green corrosion), have them replaced with stainless steel lines (we had a copper line to our water heater break just after 5 years!).
Good news (December 2007): Available now are completely stainless steel flex pipes for water heater tanks. These are much better than either the old copper flex pipes or more recent stainless steel-over-rubber hoses.
4) Consider installing valves on drain pipes to prevent sewer line back-ups if a unit will be left vacant for long periods. It is pretty easy for a plumber to install them in the drain pipes under kitchen sinks, a little more difficult under bathroom sinks, and probably impossible for bathroom tubs (but the tubs can hold a lot of back-up water before they overflow).
5) Make sure you have good caulking around the outside of your windows and doors (this is the most common source of water leakage, and it is responsibility of the owner, in conjunction with the doors, windows, and frames). The caulking around the windows, depending on sun exposure, may only keep a seal for 2-3 years. Also, make sure you have good caulking around your sinks, bathtubs, and toilets. This will help prevent leaks and water damage to your unit and other units.
Note effective 6/1/2007 per Board decision: Even though it is the responsibility of the Owners, the Association will do the external painting and caulking of windows and doors upon request and approval, in addition to the Association doing this work on a routine basis. This work done by the Association is merely a courtesy to encourage preventative action and does not relieve the owner of his/her responsibilities
6) Termites - If you see a lot of small, round pieces of wood/"sawdust", there are termites (they cannot be avoided in California, but their damage can be minimized). Please have the area treated as soon as possible. Effective June 1, 2007 per Board decision: If you use the Association designated vendor, the Association will pay for the treatment. The designated vendor is Dewey Pest Control, (760) 753-6457. You can call them and arrange an appointment for an inspection, then they will fax a report to PMC for our approval, and then they will call you for an appointment to do the treatment. Note that payment by the Association is merely a courtesy to encourage preventative action and does not relieve the owner of his/her responsibilities
Note: If we react to signs of termites with immediate treatment, their damage is minimized. To minimize dry rot (which has been a bigger a problem than termites regarding beams inside the balconies), things need to be kept painted and sealed to keep the wood as dry as possible.
Special note to owners that rent: Please inspect, or
have your units inspected, every 6 months for any signs of water leakage or
damage, or termites. Unfortunately, most renters cannot be relied upon to
report these signs.
7) Ants - Like termites, ants are a common
bother in Southern California. We have the property sprayed for ants
monthly. If you have a lot of ants, you can let us know so we can advise
the sprayer to focus in that area. Also, the liquid Terro ant baits work
fairly well if they are placed in the path of the ants (although it takes about
3 days to work and you want to place them in the path as far away from the
kitchen and food as you can so the ants are attracted away from these areas).
8) Sliding screen & glass doors -
Click here for our guidelines.
The
maintenance and replacement of these (and their frames) are the responsibility of the owner,
but replacement doors or frames must be have the same style (thin
frames) and external color
as the originals to be consistent with our external appearance (requires
an Architectural Request submitted and approved by the Board).
For the sliding screen doors, you can look in the yellow pages or Internet for
screen door repair and replacement people.
Replacement glass and screen door frames may be aluminum (like the originals, which have lasted over 20 years
- aluminum lasts well if kept clean), vinyl (see below), or fiberglass (the most durable, but more
expensive). Click here for local dealers. All are
also dealers for Milgard
Windows (aluminum and fiberglass styles that meet our guidelines).
Good news: Vinyl window frames
(low cost and durable) were not previously available in dark brown (only lighter
colors, because dark vinyl fades), but there are new alternatives where they
have applied a dark coating or layer to the vinyl. Dixieline carries a good
product from American
Integrity (Legacy 460, dark brown color "Sierra"), or click
here for information on The Window Factory, or click
here for information on Vinyl Masters). The question is whether the dark brown layer
will fade, chip, peel, etc.
For replacing the rollers under the sliding doors, there are zinc di-chromide ones, which rust but may be the only ones available in the hardware stores, and there are stainless steel ones (which are much better). One brand of stainless steel rollers is Sugatsune (click here to see their local dealers).
9) Porch lights - Owners are responsible for the balcony/porch lights (which are controlled by a switch in the unit). If you want to replace the fixture, you need to follow the guidelines (click here).
10) Front doors - Owners are responsible for the maintenance and replacement of the front doors (requires an Architectural Request submitted and approved by the Board). Click here for guidelines.
11) Washing & drying machines in the units - These are allowed, but new vents to the roof are not allowed and locating washing machines in the hallway closet sharing the kitchen wall is not allowed (the kitchen stack drain pipe plumbing does not provide sufficient capacity for draining washing machines, so back-ups into units may result).
You might want to think twice about
installing or using washers & dryers in the units because they add about
$100 per month to your electric bill for 2 loads per week, versus $8 per week in
the common area laundry room for two loads (with 2 dryer cycles each) or $32 per
month (plus, they have large capacities and the HOA makes some income on the
machines). Also, they cause floods in units, including because the salt
air attacks them and their hoses & pipes.
All units originally had plumbing connections for them, usually in the bedroom
utility closet (washer and dryer electrical connections, and the washer water
supply connection). It you don't see them, they may be covered by the
wallboard in the back of the closet, which can be cut out to access the
connections. Only this location is allowed to be used because the drain
line is connected to the "bathroom stack" (so, the main hall closets
cannot be used, which would hook into the "kitchen stack", where water
from a clothes washer can overwhelm the drain pipes in the building and cause
backups to the multiple units sharing that stack). This was
effective per a Board decision in 2009, and the Board is considering making it
retroactive since this is continually causing floods.
To avoid dryer venting concerns (including hazards
and outside appearance), it is highly recommended that self-venting
"condensing clothes dryers" be used (the hot exhaust air goes into
a chamber where it condenses into water that goes down the drain).
Bosch is probably the best and the quietest (and their dishwashers are amazingly
silent).
On the condensing clothes dryers, you need clean out the condensation chamber
about every 2 years and then it works really well (like new). On the Bosch
model, you just pull off the bottom front metal (pull it straight out by
grasping at the sides), then pull off the white plastic cover on the left, then
push the two blue retainers down, then pull/slide out the condensation chamber.
The best way to clean it is take it outside and spray it down with a hose. Also,
it is good to clean the foam filter on the right-hand side by carefully pulling
it out (you can pull the top or bottom towards the middle to collapse it and
pull it out, then it is flat).
There are also "lint-trap" kits available at hardware stores (such as at
Dixieline: Deflect-o Hardware Supurr-Flex lint trap kit for $13.49), which are a
container that you run the dryer hose into which catches most lint and condenses
some water. But these may not take enough water out of the hot moist air
from the dryer, so the air going into the unit may cause your unit to be humid
and contribute to mold/mildew.
The only other alternative is to run a big exhaust hose to a
vent in an external wall (it is unsafe and mold-creating to exhaust the dryer
air inside - click here for
info), but this can be only done if the dryer if the hose does not exceed 6
feet long (or it would accumulate lint and cause a fire hazard).
An Architectural Request must be submitted to the Association for approval to put a vent in an external wall. Rigid metal vent tubing is recommended in the industry. This tubing is typically made of aluminum, which is economical and easy to install. The use of flexible plastic tubing and flexible metal tubing (which is made of metal rings held together with cloth and glue, both of which are flammable materials) is prohibited in most states. Click here for more info on dryer exhausts, and here.
12) Mold - We have not had significant problems at Del Mar Shores Terrace, but to minimize the possibility (since we are in a humid and sea air environment): Keep all inside doors cracked open (or have vents installed in the closets), let some air into the unit (the original sliders are "leaky", which takes care of this - take care if you install new sliders which may be more air-proof), and let some of the good dry sunshine into your unit. Also, keep things clean with anti-fungal cleaners, keep the caulking in your bathroom(s) in good shape, and consider sqeegie'ing and/or drying your shower off with a towel after you are done.
Dehumidier units (which collect the water into a container - better yet empties into a drain so you don't need to worry about the container overflowing), and containers/dispensers of chemical dehumidifier are available. Two brands of chemical dehumidifier are Dry-Out (13 ounce jar for $3.97 at Home Depot to $4.79 at Dixieline, which you check every 2-4 weeks and pour off the water) and Dry Air at Home Depot (there is a unit for $6.79, with 13 ounce refill bags for $1.49).
Also, you can install a towel warmer in your bathroom (one of the best investments we have ever made!) - it not only helps dry out the bathroom, but it also dries out your towels and has them warm when you finish your bath. It's also nice in the winter to go into a warm bathroom. Some appliance stores and perhaps Home Depot Expo have towel warmers. Some warmers stand on the floor and plug into a standard outlet, and some are installed on the wall and wired by electricians. You want to get a warmer that does enough warming - at least 500 watts. An excellent brand is Runtal (http://www.runtalnorthamerica.com, click on "Omnipanel Electric" at the bottom, or phone 1-800-526-2621). We have the one pictured on their home page. It is 120 volt and comes in either direct wire or plug-in. It has 3 settings, up to 700 watts, but we found that the "medium" setting is sufficient. Also, you will want to have a timer so it warms things up a couple of hours before you bathe, and stays on a couple of hours afterwards to dry the towels and bathroom (you can get either plug-in or built-in timers from any hardware store - but make sure the timer is rated to support 700 watts or more).
Side Note: Between this tip, which adds dry heat, the sunshine, and having a unit in the middle which is surrounded by other units on the sides, top, and bottom, we have never turned our heaters on!
13) Metal & salt air - They don't mix well. Brass goes first (can be damaged within 6 months, and can turn totally black within a year), although the "Lifetime" coatings on some brass plumbing fixtures may withstand it longer (our Moen fixtures are looking "okay" after 3 years - but there are some spots/pitting and we probably wouldn't do brass next time). Don't even try lamps with brass bases - get lamps with ceramic bases. Steel and iron also do not do well (must be constantly painted and holes filled, such as our lower balcony railings). Aluminum and nickel/pewter seem to do the best (our upper balcony railings and our original slider doors are aluminum), although aluminum pits and can be painted (but with special primer & paint).
14) Patio/balcony furniture - The salt air will get to steel or iron fast, regardless of their paint or coatings. Plastic is cheap, and some of it looks good in the beginning, but it fades and stains within a year or so. Cast aluminum furniture is the best (available for $300-400 and up for a table and 4 chairs from Home Depot, Costco.com, and Hauser Furniture – recommend the one on Morena Blvd, left at the Sea World exit). Cast aluminum furniture lasts 15-20 years. Fairly good quality tubular aluminum furniture is also available, which is lighter and less expensive (not the cheap beach-chair type, but you can tell it is not cast aluminum because it is lighter). Click here to see the guidelines for what can be placed on the patios.
15) Barbeques - Although a great American tradition, they are not so great for coast and condo living. They rust out fast (may last 2 years), soon do not look good (with or without a cover), and cooking on them causes noxious fumes to go into neighbor's units. A surprisingly good substitute is the George Foreman grill, which is used on the kitchen countertop. You will be amazed at how well it grills steaks, fish, vegetables, etc. They are available in three sizes - the smallest is too small for two people, but the larger one is good, and there is also a "family size" one.
16) Electrical sockets - These may only last about 7 years on the coast because of salt air corrosion. You will experience difficulty in plugging things in and some plugs may be dead. Note that electrical sockets are wired through each other in series, so if one goes bad other can be dead. It is fairly easy for an electrician to replace electrical sockets.
17) Unit cleaning - Some choices include: Cynthia at (760) 839-3452 or (760)580-6488; Tina at (760) 889-4851, Berta at (619) 226-6358, Impeccable Cleaning at (619) 271-0677, The Cleaning Lady at (951) 963-5210, Hilary's Cleaning Service at (760) 415-6922, Amelia at (858) 204-5627,, and Margarita's House Cleaning Services at (760) 420-6661.
18) Carpet cleaning and moisture removal - Some choices include: Rancho Carpet Cleaning at (760) 758-0074, Torrey Pines Carpet Cleaning at (858) 481-3712, and Vic's Carpet Cleaning at (760) 753-7373.
19) Old circuit breakers - Please have them replaced. They can be a fire hazard.
20) Old wall heaters - Please have them replaced. They can be a fire hazard, especially if the limit switch fails and they overheat. At a minimum, do not leave them on if no one is in the unit.
21)
Dogs - Pet Emergency Care: Criticare,
24-hours (759-2255, 6525 Calle Del Nido, next to the Helen
Woodard Animal Center in Rancho Santa Fe/Scripps Ranch - east on Via De La
Valle, right on El Camino, left on San Dieguito, look for signs on left past the
Scripps Ranch Country Club). Animal
& Bird Hospital, 24-hours (755-9351, 2132 Jimmy Durante Bl - very
interesting, free mini-zoo), All Creatures
Hospital 6AM-10PM (481-7992, 3665 Via De La Valle - east, on the corner of
El Camino).
Veterinarian: Solana Hills Pet Medical Center (350-6353, 140 S. Solana Hills Dr. - in the strip mall
north on Lomas Santa
Fe & this side of I-5). Cemeteries/Crematoriums: San
Diego Pet Memorial Park, M-F8-5, Sat 8-1 (909-0009, 8995 Crestmar Pt - east
on Miramar Rd, left on Carroll Rd, right on Crestmar Pl, above El Camino
Memorial Park cemetery). Circle of Life Pet Crematorium, M-F
9-5, (800) 791-0906 (will pick up from vets and pet hospitals, will return ashes
in a handsome wooden chest or scatter at sea for $115 for animals 50 pounds and
under).
Pet-sitting - Pam at (760) 500-5640, Martie at (858) 525-2925, Christy at (619) 246-1960, Carol at (760) 632-1346, Christine at (858) 794-1822, Jeannie at (760) 579-3024 or Woofin' It at (858) 349-9332 or http://www.woofinitsd.com. Certified Dog Trainer: Larry Marshall (dog walking, obedience training, in-home pet visits, photography, special requests) at (760) 271-5252 or www.PetGuy1.com. More Pet Info (includes "Places To Go" and "Resources", which includes vets, etc.): SanDiegoPet.com and PetsUnleashed.com.
Please e-mail any comments or ideas for this web site or for Del Mar Shores by clicking here (or by sending an e-mail to delmarshores@jumpingdolphins.com). Also, please e-mail us if you want to know when we make significant updates to this web site (about every three months). We do not need your name or address, and your e-mail address will only be used for this purpose and not provided to anyone else.